Tututepec

Tututepec

Gina, the information goddess,  put together a well-organized and fascinating excursion to the cradle of Mixteco civilization in Tututepec.  With two comfortable vans for transport, we were first delivered to the hotel in Rio Grande to meet with the expert on the Mixteco culture.
Architect Zenon Felix Carrillo Robles is an author, painter,  poet, rancher, hotelier, and historian.  His book Yucu-Dzaa Tututepec is considered to be a definitive work of the history of the Mixtec people.  He gave a lecture on the life and times of Ocho Venado accompanied by a color facsimile of the Mixteco codex which by way of pictures showed the accomplishment of uniting the people into a huge kingdom.
The lecture whetted our appetite for the museum of artefacts which was founded about 10 years ago.  Departing from Rio Grande and winding slowly through rich farm land up a narrow mountain road into the mountain village of Tututepec, we were treated to the bustle of their market day.  Stopping first to visit with Petra, the reknowned beadwork and embroidery master and being treated to a glass of cold jamaica water, we could examine and buy her work.
The museum is small, but the local people were willing to donate for display their private collections of ancient items uncovered from the fields and kept for generations.  There were stele, animal sculptures, a dugout canoe, pot shards, early spindles, and molds for the lost wax metal work.  The polychrome shards of pottery are among the boldest and brightest colors that I have seen among Pre-Hispanic ceramics.  There were small clay renderings of the Mixtecos that showed the diversity of tribal features and were so exquisitely done that one could see personality in the features.  The guide with Gina translating gave us an interesting explanation of the myths, and history.
If that was not enough, we stopped at Santa Rosa de Limon for lunch at the famous La Dona restaurant.  A day trip to the restaurant is well worth the effort and its sign post is displayed on the highway.
Once again, Gina surpassed expectations.  Thank you for adding to our knowledge and appreciation of the diverse Oaxacan culture.
Cindy Tims
February 21, 2012

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